Post by Mudslinger/Admin on Aug 3, 2019 10:01:21 GMT
A few years ago, I bought a Team Losi TEN SCT as an RTR(Ready to Run) combo kit. At first, it was fun as hell and lightning fast. It included a R.O.S.S. on-board remote starter system, that operates via the hand held radio controller. To crank the nitromethane burning, two stroke engine, you just push one simple button on the remote that charged the glow plug igniter and spun the electric starter at the same time and "POOF" she's running. That sounds very high tech and convenient as hell. Right? That's what I thought too, but I was wrong. I guess that I should have searched for more reviews before I purchased it, but "hey", it's a Losi product... Losi is one of the oldest and most reputable race and hobby class RC manufacturers in the world. I guess even one of the big boys can screw up, sometimes. Now, don't go and blast T.L. for making an error in judgement. The R.O.S.S. system is actually quite ingenious in theory, design and quality as well. This is a simple case of too many things that can go wrong simply, because the more sub systems required and the more working parts you have on a very fast off-road vehicle that is running over very rough terrain... Well, it just creates the possibility of more things that can go wrong. Here is what I have learned from this whole experience: We all know that you have to properly break-in a freshly built high performance engine. Well, I didn't do that to this particular kit, because included with the instructions was the statement that it had already been run through the break-in process before it was boxed and shipped. I know, damn it! I'm a dumbass for trusting something so important to someone else. After I ran it through a few tanks of nitro, then 'pow'! The inevitable happened... The engine suffered from vapor lock. I removed the glow plug, cut the fuel supply, turned it upside down and spun the engine a couple of times. I repeated this process several times and all that I accomplished was stripping the gears inside the starter. I boxed it up and figured I would get back to it when I had the time to really focus on the problem. Now, let's fast forward to four years later. I now have a large work area to take the whole truck apart and some time to work on a solution. So, the R.O.S.S. system is obsolete and parts are no longer available. Huh! I wonder why? Nevermind, don't answer that. So, after finding out that pretty much most of these kits suffered the same kind of problems, I searched www. for an alternative solution. I found that Losi had made a plain non starter backplate for the 3.4cc engine that came in this kit and I found one @ amainhobbies.com. Now, this option would require me to obtain a bump starter box. So, I found one that would mate-up to a 1/10 off-road vehicle made by Ofna. Also, purchased from amainhobbies.com. I thought, this is going to fix everything. Boy, was I wrong! The engine isn't just vapor locked, it's locked up and to use that engine again I will have to completely disassemble the entire engine for a complete rebuild. In the meantime, I found a good deal on a .18ci engine with a pull starter by Xiangtat #HSP02060 on Amazon. Of course, as with everything else in my life, nothing is ever easy. The new engine has a rotary carburetor instead of a slide carb that the truck is designed for and being a small block, the carb on the other engine won't fit it. It also, has inboard side exhaust, as apposed to rear exhaust and the engine mounts won't interchange. So, I got back on the www. and found a used but like new 10mm slide carb on ebay, a complete exhaust system by HobbyCrawler #W10001(silver) @ Amazon.com that, I have to modify to fit this setup, air intake kit by ShareGoo #04104 at Amazon.com and a complete clutch kit also by HobbyCrawler #ACT10096R also from Amazon.com. The only thing left to do to complete the installation is get some 1/4"x2" aluminum bar stock and cut (2) 1" pieces to drill and tap for the engine mounts. Once I get the aluminum and get everything assembled for mock up, then I get to take it all back apart and completely disassemble the engine for inspection and re-lubricate for reassembly. When I'm finally ready to run this beast, you can bet your ass that I will conduct a proper break-in of the new engine. That means running at least (3) tanks of 20% nitro/12% castor oil at low idle sitting on the work stand, then at least (2) more tanks on the move at no more than 50% throttle. Then, I can start opening her up to run at full speed all of this with a rich fuel setting on the carb. You know to lubricate the hell out of it and keep the head temperature down throughout the break-in process. Once I've used up the whole jug of 20% nitro fuel, then I'm going to switch to 30% racing fuel. Wish me luck and feel free to comment or ask questions.
